Wow Paullie!     Thanks for going above and beyond!!! 

The first I saw of them was a google search for Shoei, and they came up. The boys on the bmw site seemed to have positive results, but I may be just a tad too skeptical.  My run of luck with deals like this usually run on the rotten side.

Thank you again Paullie! Much appreciated!   

And I will give FC Moto a look see Paul2bikes. 

Thanks guys.

A mate of mine is working in Africa for a couple of months, and he's unable to book his bike on Eurostar for later this year (apparently the Eurotunnel website is blocked on the site where working).
Anyone know if there's a problem with me buying the ticket, other than having to faff around with the payment card when we check in?
I'm not sure if the API gets linked to the online booking.

Bit confused here. Was this on your Tiger 1050 or do you also own a current Speed Triple 'S' and 'RS'.

ACTUALLY, at least the way I remember it, after we swapped senders the problem continued. As a test, we pulled the oil filter, started the bike, and no oil flowed for about a second. As I was just about to shut it off to avoid damage, a big eruption happened and then we were good. But yeah, the sender unit was not a problem. And it was a "fill the filter before fitting" situation. I figured it was the full filter that created the problem.

BTW, the link isn't working for me either.

Ok its 2 and a bit but who is counting.

Installed these shortly after I got the TS because I was doing long distance commuting. I felt these gave me a significantly view than the OE lights set as it came out of the factory. I got the Cyclops because at the time they were considered the dog's danglies. Not checked any reviews on what's good and not recently. Have noticed there is a new generation of all-in-one bulbs but I haven't seen any that give dimensions that would fit behind the cap. Also a few that clain to give the same beam pattern as a halogen. These all seem to be clones of the Philips (???). Philips claim there's is only suitable for projectors and still have "not for road use" marked on the box.

The not so good bits:

• Proper PITA to get them in with the ballast all behind the cap. Some on this forum tried and claimed impossible
• Total lack of focus / beam pattern

My solution to the beam pattern was to aim my lights really low so that most of the light was under the line I have drawn on  my garage door (to adjust the lights from a previous bike). The results were quite good. The amount of overspill meant I got good reach without blinding oncoming drivers (I have never been flashed). The downside was that was as good as it gets because the main beams (halogens) didn't actually reach as far as the dipped  LEDs because they were set so low.

So in anticipation of this year's MOT I ordered a full set of night breakers. Installing the main beam was a doddle (just as you would expect). Then last night I thought I'd do a trial run on one of the H7s - which would also allow me to compare in the real world.

Cap off - bulb out, well that was easy. Now to detach the bulb from the ballast so I can put it somewhere safe while doing the rest. Fiddly but manageable in the end.
Next extract the ballast so I can get to the H7 connector.    censored - it doesn't fit through the gap. They were right it doesn't fit. fiddled for ages and eventually concluded the only way to do this was a bit of destructive disassembly. Wires to the ballast pulled out (only they aren't supposed to) managed to detach the ballast from the H7 plug, left the ballast inside the headlight unit out of harms way.
On to the H7 connector. Oh that doesn't fit through the gap either. Technically I think it will if you manage to rotate it but the tension of the wires prevent this. Tried for a couple of hours to coax it out and deployed my full set of aquarium aquascaping tools to assist.

By the time bed time came around I gave up and put the cap on. I also ordered some H7 connectors on line. More destructive disassembly - the easy option is to cut the wires, crush the connector with pliers and extract it and put a new connector on. Don't know if the same approach will work on the ballast or of it destined to continue living in there.

By all means do this if you wish but if you need to have annual MOT's or inspections don't be under any illusions that its just a case of swapping bulbs before and after the test. For me I will be going back to halogens and using the LED aux lights to fill in the gaps.

FWIW I rode home tonight on high beams with the nightbreakers in (they just reach the line on my garage door intended for low beams). Visibility was pretty good with and without the aux lights and nobody flashed me. WIll adjust upwards once I have installed the low beams.