30 Sep 23, 19:43 pm

Recent Posts

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1
A little more prep today in readiness for removing the radiator and exhaust tomorrow . . . Only managed to drain the coolant.
Again, the manual is silly - it suggests the first step is to remove the radiator cap and collect the fluid which drains out, before loosening the radiator bleed screw and then removing the bleed bolt in the block. Doing it this way will result in coolant everywhere - the first step alone will empty the expansion tank all down the radiator - just daft.
Anyway, having changed the coolant in the bike previously, itís a very easy job and especially with a slightly modified technique
1. Remove the single mounting bolt from the expansion tank and with its hoses still attached, invert the tank and empty its contents before resecuring in place.
2. Remove the drain screw in the block - no coolant will be released.
3. Place a hose over the hole, tie it in position and place the free end in a receiving container with a capacity of 3 litres or more (you will be collecting +\- 2 litres of coolant
4. Undo and remove the radiator bleed screw in the top right surface of the radiator. This will allow about 1.4litres of coolant to flow out of the block via the hose and without spilling a drop.
5. Release the lower hose from the water pump as per the manual. Be aware that this will suddenly release almost a pint of coolant and without care, it will spray out everywhere. Best best is to wiggle the hose towards he end of the spigot and when it starts to dribble, simply leave it to drip slowly whilst you go and make a coffee. When drained, the last dregs can be drained by fully removing the hose - job done

I keep my coolant on ďmaxĒ when cold and draining the engine this way produced exactly 2.00 litres of coolant. I will use this figure as a means of knowing whether or not I have any air locks when refilling, as I should be able to refill with this amount to bring it back to ďmaxĒ.










2
Hi I rather stupidly removed all fairings and tried to rely on my cabbage brain and now canít recall which length bolts go in the correct hole for the fairings. Iíve tried Haynes manual but thatís not listed.

Does anyone happen to know which length fits which hole? Thereís short stubby ones, longer length and one thatís slightly longer again.

Thanks
3
I have a NOCO Lithium NLP14 battery installed with upgraded battery cables. Will look into the V2 tune. Thanks
4
Tyres and Wheels / Re: Michelin Pilot Road 6 GT or not GT ?
« Last post by Mike_B on Today at 04:48:51 pm »
*Originally Posted by Yellow Dog [+]
Thank you.

I was almost on that same page. Funnily enough I can't seem to get the 180 width in the standard PR6 and they are only offering the 190 width instead.

Itís definitely made in 180 width.  I usually get tyres from FWR in south London - they are showing 5 of that size in stock.
5
*Originally Posted by Sidewinder [+]
Another thing that will stop you is the integrated immobiliser.  The transponder in the key getting signal from the aerial in the lock unit.  If the proper signal is not sent/rec'd it won't start.  Have you tried spare key?
Needs be no magnets, no other transponder equipped keys etc.

Yes I had tried with the spare key. Not luck unfortunately.
6
Another thing that will stop you is the integrated immobiliser.  The transponder in the key getting signal from the aerial in the lock unit.  If the proper signal is not sent/rec'd it won't start.  Have you tried spare key?
Needs be no magnets, no other transponder equipped keys etc.
7
*Originally Posted by Scrapiron [+]
My tune is 20549, has the Triumph TOR exhaust and K&N filter with snorkel removed. No other modifications done, the butterflies are clean when I serviced the air cleaner.

20549 should be fine. For the purposes of ruling out the fueling, why don't you try Dave's V2 tune. That one's super smooth and has much improved fueling at the lower end.

Also, what battery model do you have installed? A 14 series battery serves well to rule out any cranking power issues. 
8
My tune is 20549, has the Triumph TOR exhaust and K&N filter with snorkel removed. No other modifications done, the butterflies are clean when I serviced the air cleaner.
9
 Good work.  100psi is your friend.
10
*Originally Posted by olly [+]
An old version I had on my windows PC didn't show anything. Does yours start of connect the other side of the relay to the -ve of the battery?

Yes it does. As expected.

If all ECU controls are passed (clutch, side-stand and shifter positions), then earth to the relay coil is supplied by ECU. Somehow something causing ECU to block the circuit.

I did not test the side stand or neutral switches' continuity or voltages. I just concluded by logic that they should work, as the neutral light comes on when I shift to neutral. And side stand position shouldn't matter when the bike knows it is in neutral. But maybe that is a wrong logic.

I will also check under the female relay socket to see if there is a bad connection.

Here are two pages from the service manual.


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