28 Feb 24, 15:07 pm

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Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical issues / Re: Tiger Not Starting
« Last post by Kev51 on Today at 01:31:44 pm »
Sorry for the delay in responding but had to have a hernia op so working on bike was off the cards.
Was able to start the bike for a minute or so but it sounded like a charf cutter. Felt the exhaust pipes and the centre pipe was cold compared to the cylinders 1 & 3. At least knew where the problem was affecting.
Took off tank etc and removed the centre plug and it was clean as a whistle meaning that it had been firing so must be a blocked injector nozzle for the centre cylinder #2.
Yet to remove and clean as taking it easy after op and also have family excursion away this weekend so will check out on my return. Looks like I need to add some additive every 6 months to the tank of fuel to ensure no chance of future blockage?
Will let you know the outcome.
Anyone had issue when upgrading mobile phone and TuneECU App is transferred from old one but comes up saying that is not recognised on new phone when plugged into bike?
I removed original TuneECU App off old phone before trying to use on bike?
Thanks Kevin
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*Originally Posted by thelonious [+]
I don't know if that's the best plan Paul - on my Sprint a couple of valves opened up a bit between checks three years /18k miles apart. They were still in spec - just - but if they had been set to max clearance at the first check they would have been out at the second one.

Middle of the quoted range is probably the best bet. This will give very slightly better performance too.

In my experience of 5 Triumphs over 200k miles, I have only known valves to close up.
The first 2 Sprints, valves all closed to zilch after being serviced by dealers until the warranties ran out, likely never checked. Shimmed both to top spec. Never needed doing again.
My third Sprint was near min on 2 inlets at 12k, others all around mid.
My current Tiger Sport 1050 was closed up at min-near mid, on 6 valves at 12k service, all re-shimmed to, above mid-top spec. all ok at 24k.
My T800 was low on all exhausts at 12k, they will all need re-shim at 24k.

Each to their own thoughts, eh.
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I got half height spacers and shorter bolts  :001:
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I don't know if that's the best plan Paul - on my Sprint a couple of valves opened up a bit between checks three years /18k miles apart. They were still in spec - just - but if they had been set to max clearance at the first check they would have been out at the second one.

Middle of the quoted range is probably the best bet. This will give very slightly better performance too.
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*Originally Posted by thelonious [+]

I did fit the supplied stand-off spacers but this isn't essential, you could fit it directly to the Triumph base rack and have the box 20mm lower. But the bolts would need shortening and I couldn't be bothered.

Yet to see what the wife thinks of the comfort of the pillion with this in place, but I found the Givi V47 box is comfortable to lean on, providing some lumbar support!

Before and after:

Spacers shown:



I did similar a couple of years back, bought shorter bolts and tried without spacers.
IIRC I found there's insufficient clearance to remove the seat, which is why I changed back to the original set up with spacers.

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If all those valves had a shim thinner at this stage, you could forget about it for your lifetime, I would do it now while it's easy access, get them all at, or close to, top limit.
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That spring is a fairly standard part of any oil seal, its job is to ensure a tight and rapid seal around the shaft and maintain a seal when the lip becomes worn. There's some more info here: https://www.nokcn-seals.com/resources/the-structure-functions-and-types-of-oil-seals.html

I guess it broke because it was constantly flexing due to the slop between the shaft and the bearing.

I agree it does look like the clutch actuator arms are too soft, they should not wear like that. The one on my Sprint did 50k miles without problem, but I replaced the one on my Tiger 955i at 80k miles (for a different reason) and it was pretty badly worn. The design has basically the same for all the 955 and 1050 engines, indeed the same clutch cover fits all these engines I believe.

So perhaps Triumph think "if it is broke, don't fix it"!!!

Interesting point about the cam chain tension changing the valve clearances. Makes sense, as there is quite a lot of force there. I have never noticed this effect but then you would not normally check them without the chain present and tensioned.
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I guess it depends on how far, how cold, and how good your circulation is. I've never had a road bike with proper hand guards so that might turn out to be enough.
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My view has always been that the handguards provide sufficient protection from the cold / wet and heated gloves aren't required. Just a decent pair of winter riding gloves  :031:
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Thanks for the replies, good to hear. Heated boots is an interesting proposition... I tried a (cheap) set of heated gloves but they died pretty quickly on me. My current solution is heated grips, lots of core layers, and the wind/water proof over-pants. Those combined with big mid-calf racing boots usually work well until things start getting below freezing.

Good to hear that you don't get excessive muck thrown up onto your legs, that was a big complaint of mine with previous bikes. One of the reasons I want to go to a touring-style bike with a bar over my current sport one with clip-ons is I'd like the option of those big dorky over-mitts for bars, they look like the bees knees for staying warm, plus of course better wind protection from a nice big screen.

I'm guessing you'd have to go up to the Explorer to have heated seats as an option... my current bike heats the seat quiet naturally (under-seat exhaust) so I may need to explore after-market options for that, or perhaps invest in one of those heated vests.
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