30 Sep 23, 06:22 am

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My tune is 20549, has the Triumph TOR exhaust and K&N filter with snorkel removed. No other modifications done, the butterflies are clean when I serviced the air cleaner.
 Good work.  100psi is your friend.
*Originally Posted by olly [+]
An old version I had on my windows PC didn't show anything. Does yours start of connect the other side of the relay to the -ve of the battery?

Yes it does. As expected.

If all ECU controls are passed (clutch, side-stand and shifter positions), then earth to the relay coil is supplied by ECU. Somehow something causing ECU to block the circuit.

I did not test the side stand or neutral switches' continuity or voltages. I just concluded by logic that they should work, as the neutral light comes on when I shift to neutral. And side stand position shouldn't matter when the bike knows it is in neutral. But maybe that is a wrong logic.

I will also check under the female relay socket to see if there is a bad connection.

Here are two pages from the service manual.

Good evening all . . . .  slow but steady progress.
I rechecked the valve clearances today - not all of them . . . just the outliers and my measurements first time around were spot on.
I'm a little baffled by the exhaust valves since if they are being held open by carbon build up, I can't see how this would lead to crankus interruptus from a duff pressure sensor reading?? Hey ho - I'm probably over thinking things.

Anyway - all went smoothly enough, if rather slowly.
first off, I removed the cam chain tensioner. That was at mid travel and shows no signs of play whatsoever, even with the tongue fully extended. I plan to reinstall the existing tensioner and read through the instructions for reinstalling and was rather baffled by the description for installing a brand new replacement. I can't quite get my head around how the new one is supplied with the spring installed but the tongue fully in!!!  Anyway . . . . .
Next to come off was the  chain top cap, followed by the cam ladder and cam shafts. The manual contains various errors in this respect, commenting that it is important to check the orientation of the cam caps so they are installed the same way around . . . . clearly a cut & paste error in the manual as the caps are all integrated into the cam ladder and as long as that goes back correctly, the caps will all be correct by default.
Next to come off was the starter and crankcase covers, followed by the idler gears and entire sprag clutch assembly before the the cam chain itself. I marked the orientation of the chain so that if I do end up reassembling the engine, the chain will go back as it came out and any wear bias will thus be maintained.
I took on board the various remarks about leakdown testing and have watched a number of Youtube videos before deciding to order an al cheapo leakdown tester, which I plan to use before proceeding further. These cheap testers receive mixed reviews but consensus is that they are mostly rubbish but then . . . . what do we expect for a tool imported from China for 18 inc postage??  :008:
The truth is, I'm not worried about trying to accurately quantify the percentage leakdown but am rather more concerned in procuring a qualitative assessment as to where my compression is going!! I figured that by removing the cams, all the valves will remain permanently closed and I can conduct a leakdown test on each cylinder but also with the pistons in any position I choose. There will be no need to fanny around worrying about whether or not a piston at TDC is on its induction or compression stroke etc.
I plan to borrow a friend's compressor and simply connect it directly to each spark plug hole in turn, whilst holding the pistons in position by putting the bike in top gear and maybe tying down the rear brake if necessary.
I plan to drain down the coolant tomorrow and remove the exhaust system entirely and then with each bore pressured up in turn, I should be able to hear where any air is escaping but also, I can do the test in all piston positions and not just TDC. . . .
I've been thinking things through and it's not inconceivable that a barrel could be scored over its middle section such that it leaks in that area but perhaps seals at TDC  . . . nothing to lose by testing at tdc, bdc and mid travel. If I do this, what sort of PSI should I be aiming to use??  I'm just wary of causing any damage by loading up a "jammed" crankshaft at mid throw. Perhaps I'm worrying unnecessarily and the same healthy 100psi won't be an issue, particularly if I build up to it . . . . I may well discover a healthy hiss at well below 100 psi anyway.
So . . that's the plan. There's nothing to do now for a day or two until I can get my hands on the compressor and the leakdown tester arrives and so I won't probably post again for a few days, that is  . . . . unless draining the coolant and removing the exhaust system turns into an unexpected adventure - hopefully not!!!!! :003:

Could be TPS not set right or simple as mucky butterflies or an air leak?
An old version I had on my windows PC didn't show anything. Does yours start of connect the other side of the relay to the -ve of the battery?
*Originally Posted by olly [+]
[quote author=TrueType link=topic=43236.msg474330#msg474330
Did you check the negative on your relay socket Olly?

 I think I described my situation. I actually get 12v across the relay coil but insufficient current to activate it. If I take the negative from the relay coil and run it direct to battery therefore bypassing the ecu then the starter button starts it fine.

Our symptoms seems the same, maybe the cause too.

Following the wiring diagram, everything seems is fine until the ECU. But ECU doesn't provide the negative polarity to the starter relay. Even when the clutch, neutral and side stand switches working as they should.

Can the Triumph diagnostic tool, or TuneECU spot locate the problematic part in these kind of issues?
my 07 starts fine without touching anything. Since opening the throttle a tiny bit works, I would probably just leave it alone rather then opening up a can of worms. Its not the end of the world.
Same engine & year as my Sprint, that started fine. It was all stock.

Does yours have a/m exhaust, air filter, etc?
Did the previous owner do any "performance mods"? (Like removing / bypassing O2 sensor)
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