Electrical gremlins - any advice

[Paul2bikes]

Take the battery off charger, switch on ignition/lights for 3 mins to burn off excess, then check voltage. Now what does it read static? Also with ignition on?

[Richiek65]

Originally Posted by Paul2bikes

Take the battery off charger, switch on ignition/lights for 3 mins to burn off excess, then check voltage. Now what does it read static? Also with ignition on?

I'll try and get to this tonight but it may be the weekend before i do

[Richiek65]

Well guess what?
A new battery cured all gremlins.
I came out a few days ago, turned the key and this time there was nothing, not even a blinker. I put a voltmeter over the battery and it showed less than 4 volts. Bought a new battery, installed it, and she roared back to life, full dash instruments etc. I just needed to get the engine warning light reset and it is all 100%.
Mechanic who looked at it previously may or may not have tested the battery properly, maybe it was an intermittent cell issue and now it had completely died.
I'm just glad I don't have to chase wiring all over the place.

Many thanks to all who replied

Cheers

[ZuluTiger]

It's amazing how many different issues come back to the battery. In this case quite different symptoms than we usually get. My KTM did nutty stuff with a bad battery, but my Triumph experience told me to change it out, and all was immediately well too. The battery (a YTZ14S in the KTM) had been on a Tender but still gave trouble. I've since moved it to an electric go-kart and it's doing fine! I think the heavy CCA draw makes things marginal even if the battery still has plenty of life for low-duty applications.

And Tenders are not a universal panacea. Batteries need cycling to prolong life and health as Paul2bikes well knows and has proven.

Nice one, glad it's solved.

[Richiek65]

Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I have had mine on a tender since I bought the battery about 4 years ago, perhaps a few cycles instead of constant charging may have been better for it long term.

[Dustywheels]

Originally Posted by Richiek65

Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I have had mine on a tender since I bought the battery about 4 years ago, perhaps a few cycles instead of constant charging may have been better for it long term.

Local Supplier (Super Start Batteries) told me once you get a charged indication on your tender, to remove the tender for a few days ie don't leave on a tender long term.

[Richiek65]

Cheers, I'll be doing that from now on

[ZuluTiger]

In South Africa we have automatic disconnection twice a day. Eskom are looking after our battery cycling needs. I still think you need to actually hit it with a discharge AND a high voltage charge though. I don't buy the 'disconnect' theory completely although it likely helps.

[Richiek65]

Thanks for the advice!

[Richiek65]

Hi again
My gremlins have returned!
I got a few weeks of good operation from the new battery (it is admittedly a cheap one, the only one i could source on a Sunday afternoon when i had a small window of opportunity to work on the bike) but once again, I now have dash instruments and lights powering up when I turn the ignition key, but the fuel pump doesn't prime, and the starter doesn't operate at all.
Could the fuel pump be the culprit, does it (or the computer) prevent the starter from operating if it isn't primed?
I can buy a Yuasa or similar for big $$ but don't want to outlay too much money if the battery isn't the issue, would rather divert these funds to the fuel pump or whatever the gremlin is stemming from, and upgrade the battery a paypacket or two later.
Both mechanics who have looked at the bike find nothing, no scan codes etc
Frustrated doesn't begin to describe my feelings at the moment!
Any advice appreciated