Starting Troubles - Stator - Regulator - Bermuda Triangle

[Ksound]

Hello all,  seeking some electrical advice.  I own a 2009 Triumph 1050 Tiger.


I recently was stranded far from home and the bike wouldn't start.  I've been having intermittent starting issues for some time.  (I upgraded the battery and larger starter cables a few years ago.)

After waiting for roadside assistance for 2 1/2 hours I gave up and a guy fortunately gave me a jump start from his car. 

The battery was showing 12.5 v then 12.1 at its lowest.  From what I've read this bike needs to be over 13v.  I have been using a 14.2 v battery (YTZ14S) for the past few years with mixed issues around startup. 

I just read that if the battery is not above 13v the stator is burned out or the regulator/rectifier is blown.

Testing again:  The Battery voltage is 13-14v with the trickle charge overnight.  Without the trickle, the battery will drop below 12.2v.   

So, as a next step based on what I've read on forums, is that there is a charging issue or something is sucking down the voltage.  So it could possibly be the stator or regulator?  I do own a haynes manual that shows some info around this. 

Does anyone have a recommendation on good solid replacement parts? I'm told by a Triumph mechanic to avoid the triumph branded parts for the stator and regulator.  Also, should I refresh the battery with a better version? 


thank you

[Paul2bikes]

How old is the battery, sounds tired? Straight off a charger it will show maybe 13.5v but drop to 12.8v after a day or two, that is normal, then it should hold 12.8v for a couple of weeks or more, off charge. The YTZ14S is the correct upgrade for your model.

While running it should show 13.8v - 14.5v if less it's usually the Stator at fault but could be regulator. If showing over 15v it'll be the reg at fault.

Triumph parts are not cheap, some say there are better reg/recs, some boys over the pond recommend Ricks. Others might chip in on this.

Good luck.

[Sidewinder]

You seem to be a bit confused.  The yuasa YTZ14S is classed as a 12v battery as are all automotive batteries, but cos of how they are made (ratings of the individual cells inside blah blah) their at rest no load 100% charge state is about 12.8v.  It can be a bit more than this if they've just been charged.
So ignition off you're looking for around this figure.  Ignition on (engine off) it will drop by a few 0.1s of a volt depending on lights etc, this is fine.
Engine running the spec is 14/15v at battery although you are more likely to see 14/14.5v.  Much less than 14v, say in the low 13s or less then you likely have a charging problem and running like this even the best battery in the world will be slowly killed as you ride.
Low voltage while running most likely the stator is burnt in one or more phases - this will be obvious if you take the cover off.  Can also be a failed RR which can then damage the stator too.  High voltage is more likely the RR failed.

A good RR upgrade is a genuine Shindengen SH775 for which you need to make an adaptor plate and need a T2500676 link lead for it to be plug n play.  Beware most you find on ebay etc. will be fakes.  You can find cheapish used ones stateside off various leisure vehicles eg polaris rzr 800 etc.  Genuine new ones are many $100s
This RR works different to the OE and will make stator failures much less likely in future.

[Rhead]

ditto on what sidewinder said..my 07 puts out 14.7v at the battery at high idle when first started, even with high beams and heated grips on. That's how I know that the stator is still good.  My original stator went at 85k miles. I replaced it with a Ricks, and its still good at over 200k. I always get 4 to 5 years out of yuasa 14s and 12.2 is probably too low to start the bike. If the voltage drops below 10.5v or so under starting load, bike wont start. If your charging voltage is what we said, your battery is bad.

https://www.batterywarehouseonline.com/ytz14s/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtuOlBhBREiwA7agf1vjOx3WoOV8jap1Lsi2j2SmBd9uSvloO755FtmcLfA0ZY7JRFNxBjhoCuk4QAvD_BwE

[Ksound]

Ok thanks guys!  Thanks for the part number and resources. 

I'll test the voltage again while running and see where its at.  It's very much up and down on the voltage and not consistent.  I'll remove the stator cover as well and test.  I think there is a gasket that needs to be refreshed to put it back on so I need to get that ordered. 

regarding the Shindengen SH775 adaptor plate, are there instructions on how to do that step? 

[Sidewinder]

I found it necessary to rotate the SH775 90° so the sockets faced forwards to allow it to fit in original place.  I used something like a 5 or 6mm thick piece of ally, two holes countersunk to fix it to the frame and two threaded holes to take the bolts to fix the RR to the plate.

[Grouchybastard]

Take a look here:  https://www.roadstercycle.com/

Plug n play plus the 4 way adapter plate.   Fit perfect works great.  Great customer service also

[Paul2bikes]

Originally Posted by Rhead

ditto on what sidewinder said..my 07 puts out 14.7v at the battery at high idle when first started, even with high beams and heated grips on. That's how I know that the stator is still good.  My original stator went at 85k miles. I replaced it with a Ricks, and its still good at over 200k. I always get 4 to 5 years out of yuasa 14s and 12.2 is probably too low to start the bike. If the voltage drops below 10.5v or so under starting load, bike wont start. If your charging voltage is what we said, your battery is bad.

Have you needed any replacement reg/recs in your 200k miles? Or still running the original Triumph unit.

[Rhead]

Originally Posted by Ksound

Ok thanks guys!  Thanks for the part number and resources. 

I'll test the voltage again while running and see where its at.  It's very much up and down on the voltage and not consistent.  I'll remove the stator cover as well and test.  I think there is a gasket that needs to be refreshed to put it back on so I need to get that ordered. 

regarding the Shindengen SH775 adaptor plate, are there instructions on how to do that step?

no need to remove the cover...just test voltage at the plug. All 3 phases work or they dont.   

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[Rhead]

Originally Posted by Paul2bikes

Have you needed any replacement reg/recs in your 200k miles? Or still running the original Triumph unit.

still original. Had over 100k miles on the original ones on my other 2 triumphs too. Probably just jinxed myself though