LED Indicators- Any links to Adaptor plates

[Wakies]

Hi all   

I have decided to purchase the Oxford Nightglider LED indicators, as I quite like the idea of better visibility, with the fronts performing the DRL function and the rears linked to the brakes. Has anyone else done this conversion? They come with the resistors, and I know I need a LED relay.

https://www.oxfordproducts.com/motorcycle/brands/oxford/lighting/oxford_nightslider_sequential_indicators_rear_incl2_resistors/


I am trying to source an adaptor plate for the fixing of the stems to the bike, anyone have a link. 

[Wakies]

Doooh. 

Tiger 1050 2011 non ABS

[ZuluTiger]

If they have resistors, no LED relay required. It's one or the other. If you fit an electronic flasher, you don't need the resistors. I'd fit a flasher just to avoid having an extra load sitting uselessly out there mimicking an incandescent. The resistors make the old flasher 'think' there is a big load to keep the flash rate correct and warn of a blown bulb.

From what I can see, I don't think you need an adapter either. Once you remove the old flashers, you have a regular hole. Should mount right up.

Lots of info here:

https://www.tiger1050.com/index.php/topic,38446.0.html

[Mike_B]

I have a similar pair of Oxford LED indicators, although mine are straightforward indicators without the brake light etc.  But the size and mounting looks very similar.

Zulu is right, once the OEM blinkers are removed there is a simple holes in the plastic you can bolt these ones through.  Mine haven't moved a millimeter since fitting a year or so ago.

On my bike (2013 Sport) I needed one resistor for each front/rear pair.  I originally fitted them at both ends, and everything worked fine in the garage when testing with just the ignition switched on.  However as soon as the engine was fired up, it would blink exactly once and then stop.   Removing the resistors from the front end (I left the rears in place) solved the issue, and they now work fine whether the engine is running or not.

Another gotcha - LEDs are polarity-sensitive.  Do yourself a favour and when fitting the connectors for the front ones, cut one lead shorter than the other (like the originals).  When you remove and refit the fairings, you will know they are connected correctly without having to test every time before bolting it back on.

[ZuluTiger]

Mike makes a great point about polarity. My LEDs have a black and a white lead. Being American, the positive is the black wire and the white is the negative. Just like house wiring here, black is live. Whatever your setup, it needs to be correct, as stated.