Retrofitlab Bi-Xenon Kit

[llama]

Originally Posted by nuttySweeet

That's the ticket! Just lose the yellow connector ones and you're almost there. I needed the orange one to connect the solenoids cable correctly for the high beam to work. Maybe your splitter cable has the correct head on to begin with, but I have an inkling it's used to connect to the red one in your imgur photo of the bike cables.

If you can, get someone to hold the housing in place and you can connect it up to your bike for a test run.

Great, thanks for the help!   I assume you mean I can cut off and/or yank the yellow connector and bladed connector wire sets off completely.  As for the orange one, it doesn't match anything on the bike.  The red two prong connector seen on the bike is actually for the heated grips switch.  The three prong yellow ones connect together, I think (I'm stupid for not writing this down when i took the housing off.)  The orange one could go on the high-beam, but the solenoid splitter cable fits their perfectly. 

[llama]

Originally Posted by bigrog

That looks good to me, the solenoids are coming off the high beam and I am assuming that the low beam is connected to the solenoid coil. Discard the blue and black cables with connectors that are in the grommets. Also I am guessing that the fused wire is the supply to the ignitors which is switched by the solenoid and needs to be connected back to the battery.
Your main problem is losing all that gubbins somewhere, thats an awful lot of cable

Ya, my assumption is that the low beam should power the relay/solenoid and provide power from the battery connection to the ballasts/ignitors. 

I like the idea of stuffing everything in the housing, but if the battery wire is too short for that I might just have to put the ballasts somewhere on the frame. 

Is there a problem drilling a hole in the back of the covers instead of into the housing itself? 

[jamiesk]

Looks like lots of junk 

I put mine inside the light ... https://www.tiger1050.com/index.php/topic,30838.10.html

[bigrog]

Originally Posted by jamiesk

Looks like lots of junk 

I put mine inside the light ... https://www.tiger1050.com/index.php/topic,30838.10.html

Yes it is a lot of junk unfortunately. The existing wiring is sufficient to run the lamps, there is no need to run in an extra separate power supply nor any need to have another relay unless you want to delay the turn on as I did. The supply already goes through a relay which comes on with the ignition, this relay is de-energised when you hit the starter button, so that it removes the load of any switched accessory including the lights, while the starter motor is energised.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and have some heat shrink, then all you need to do is secure the Hid power supplies inside the headlamp unit, and then splice into the existing wiring inside the headlamp. You will utilise the two way AMP Superseal connectors that came with the lamps, which you would be otherwise throwing away. Also since you have the loom you could cut out and utilise the two way mini connectors that go to the main beam actuator relays.

The upside of doing this will be that you will have a far neater, easier and less bulky end result. The down side is that you can not convert it back to the original as easily; but you probably aren't going to do that anyway. You should put an extra 7.5Amp fuse in for safety and I suggest that you place that so that it is accessible inside one of the rear removable lamp housing covers. I have attached a wiring diagram and you can see just how simple it really is. The four way connector is the one that comes out of the back of the lamp unit, but all the wiring is in fact already inside the unit, so no need for any more holes.

[nuttySweeet]

Sorry would’ve replied earlier but was away on holiday. Yeah I though the battery wire looked familiar, mine was exactly the same size. Like I said you can extend it very easily using one of those cables off one of the lights. Just makes sure to do it before the fuse (not in-between where cable connects to the battery) as you want to keep the fuse as close the battery as possible for easy replacement if need be.

I suppose you can drill a hole anywhere you want depending on where you put the ballasts, but if you extend the battery cable they fit nicely in the centre of the housing. I seriously recommend squeezing them in there if you can, I wouldn't want them exposed to the elements if I could help it. The relay on the other hand is fairly water resistant so there is no problem in having it just outside in that small gap between the housing and frame. Enlarging those two drain holes to fit the cables through is mega easy too.

Personally I think that’s the best “no fuss” way of doing it, but if you feel confident enough to splice a few wires together Bigrog’s Mini HID direct connect is also worth a thought.

[drm66]

Old thread but I'm having trouble locating where to put the time-delay relay.  I've purchased the Retrofitlab bi-xenon kit and have everything wired and working, but no delay.  I've tried swapping out the relay that came with the Retrofitlab kit, but this disables the headlights completely.  Might be something simple, might be more complicated but I can't find anything that explains where to put this relay.