Retrofitlab Bi-Xenon Kit

[nuttySweeet]

I wasn't trying to be rude, apologies if it came across as so, I was trying to prevent bad advice from damaging someone's headlight housing. Whether we are talking about Permaseal or Butyl in this case makes little difference as the headlight housing is factory sealed with Silicone.

Whilst technically correct yes most housings do come with permaseal, in the case of the Tiger 1050, they are sealed with Silicone. End of story, no discussion, that's the way it is. You can't base the word of someone who said "Triumph headlights have permaseal most of the times" with the factual evidence and experience of everyone who has done this job themselves on this very forum.

Ergo using an oven in this case would be very bad, especially at 300c. Although nice to hear you actually meant 200c 

[bigrog]

This is direct from Retrofitlabs website

"The headlights of the Triumph Tiger 1050 are sealed with permaseal. To seal the headlight properly after finishing the retrofit, butyl is included in this kit."

 

[nuttySweeet]

Originally Posted by bigrog

This is direct from Retrofitlabs website

"The headlights of the Triumph Tiger 1050 are sealed with permaseal. To seal the headlight properly after finishing the retrofit, butyl is included in this kit."

 

Yep, and they're wrong. Seriously dude, stop trying to pass off a single sentence on a website that's obviously wrong as fact. Go and Google Tiger 1050 lighting upgrade, pretty much all the guides on all the various Triumph forums state the Tiger 1050 headlight housing is factory sealed with silicone. Not only that, myself and the others here giving advice can confirm this since we've actually performed the upgrade.

[llama]

So I split the difference and got a heat gun instead. Got it cracked apart relatively easy after that. Using their YouTube video I assembled the projectors and mounted them in the housing, but now I'm at a loss as to how the wiring all fits together. There's absolutely no instructions and none of the wires are labeled. The existing connectors on the bike have 3 wires but the kit's only have two. And do I need to drill holes in the housing/covers to pass the new bulb wiring through? I'll post some pics of my kit (and how I think it goes together) tomorrow and maybe someone can tell me if I'm missing something.

[bigrog]

Originally Posted by llama

So I split the difference and got a heat gun instead. Got it cracked apart relatively easy after that. Using their YouTube video I assembled the projectors and mounted them in the housing, but now I'm at a loss as to how the wiring all fits together. There's absolutely no instructions and none of the wires are labeled. The existing connectors on the bike have 3 wires but the kit's only have two. And do I need to drill holes in the housing/covers to pass the new bulb wiring through? I'll post some pics of my kit (and how I think it goes together) tomorrow and maybe someone can tell me if I'm missing something.

They do an adapter loom, did you get that? Failing that have a look at the wiring diagram in my write up. I put a relay in so that the lights do not come on until I select high beam, but that is not needed if you don't want that complication. You need to locate the 4way male amp connector which is in the loom close to the instrument connector and is the exisiting wiring to the lights. Pin 1 (black wire) is ground  that needs to go to the ground side of both projector high beam solenoids(black) and the ground side of both HID power supplies (black). Pin 2 (light blue/white) is the main beam signal,  it only needs to go to the other side of the projector high beam solenoids(red). Pin 3 (blue/red) is the dipped beam signal and that needs to go to the other side of the HID power supplies (blue), and that's it, the side lights should be as existing wired across pin 1 (black) and 4(yellow). Its better if you can put in plugs between the power supplies and the solenoids rather than solder splice the wiring, which will make replacement a lot easier in the future.

[llama]

I got the kit from https://www.retrofitlab.com/triumph-tiger-1050-daytona-675-mh1-1.html, so one would hope it has everything needed.  It should have also included the position/parking light bulbs and realized I didn't receive those, so I wonder if I'm missing anything else....

Here's everything I received and how I think it might go together









Is that even remotely correct?  If so, where do the yellow-seal connectors go? 

As I write this up I realize that the stock high-beam/right connector can be fitted with the new splitter that powers the high/low beam solenoid, but then the bladed connectors from the bulb wiring aren't plugged into anything! 

The connectors on the bike don't match anything on the bike (http://i.imgur.com/ZxONraY.jpg) but the power is obviously going to come from the harness connected to the battery, so the relay just needs some way to know the ignition is on.  I'm guessing this is what the two-prong bladed connector wired to the relay harness is supposed to be for, but it would have to plug into the low-beam/left connector, again leaving the bladed connectors connected to nothing...

[nuttySweeet]

The good news is that you have all the correct cables. The bad news is that you made the exact same mistake I did first time round, which isn't really bad news at all! Makes me feel better anyway 

Lose the extra set of cables in the rubber bung connected to the lights, you don't need them at all but you can use them in a moment for something else. You can also cut the rubber bungs off and use them to seal the two holes you need to drill. I used the two existing drain holes in the bottom center, the rubber bungs fit in perfectly if you open them up enough. Try to seal the ballasts in the center of the housing too. You could try and put the relay in there but I put mine just outside in the little gap between the frame. You can then attach the two ring cables coming off the ballast cables onto the frame just below that.

Also it looks like your cable is the same length as mine was, which means it's going to be too short. I used those extra cables to lengthen mine just before the fuse, was the perfect length after that.

So in short, if you lose the extra cables that came with the lights it'll start to make a bit more sense. If you still get stuck I'll try and paintshop the images with some indication of where to put the other cables. Good luck!

[llama]

While writing my previous post I made a couple of changes and here's how I think it goes now



This seems like it would energize the relay correctly when the stock low-beam connector gets powered, and switching to high-beams would power the stock high-beam connector, resulting in the solenoids activating to enable full beam.  But I'm still at a loss as to the point of the bladed connectors and yellow-seal connector on each bulb.  Maybe they're only used on the Daytona? Also, what's the point of the orange female two-prong connector piece?  The *only* thing the black connector on it matches is the high-beam connector.  Another Daytona-only part? 

[nuttySweeet]

That's the ticket! Just lose the yellow connector ones and you're almost there. I needed the orange one to connect the solenoids cable correctly for the high beam to work. Maybe your splitter cable has the correct head on to begin with, but I have an inkling it's used to connect to the red one in your imgur photo of the bike cables.

If you can, get someone to hold the housing in place and you can connect it up to your bike for a test run.
 

[bigrog]

That looks good to me, the solenoids are coming off the high beam and I am assuming that the low beam is connected to the solenoid coil. Discard the blue and black cables with connectors that are in the grommets. Also I am guessing that the fused wire is the supply to the ignitors which is switched by the solenoid and needs to be connected back to the battery.
Your main problem is losing all that gubbins somewhere, thats an awful lot of cable