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Offline alpha1050

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Display update...
« on: 07 December, 2013, 12:42:19 PM »
....well after a few days practising my soldering skills (?) on old graphic/network cards, I finally got round to replacing the 3 toggle switches in the display & to be honest, I did a pretty decent job.
However, I'm still at the stage I was before I did the job, the LCD display still reverts to "miles to empty" (default)?, pressing any of the 3 buttons causes the MIL light to flash and holding any button changes the "0" on the speedo to "2"...why?.
I'm at the end of my technical leash, any one got any ideas?? I want it working correctly but can't afford to replace.
BTW...I reflashed the ECU with a different tune hoping that would sort it out...it didn't.

Thanks for any replys.   :173: :173: :157:
2007 Tiger 1050 Scorched Yellow
20614 via TuneECU,De-Cat,TOR.
Airbox Mod,K&N,19t front,Lowering Kit
Fender Extender,Twinlight Driver3

Online indytiger1050

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Re: Display update...
« Reply #1 on: 07 December, 2013, 09:04:23 PM »
 Sounds like you have made some great progress.

Take the cluster back out. Get a marker. (erasable or not)

Start at the switch area. draw a line around a small area down by the switch's.

What you want to do is clean the iron tip. Get it hot and touch a small bit of solder to it.
You will one by one touch every connection. Touch the pad on the circuit board you will see the solder change color as it melts. Immediately remove the iron.
Move on. There are a couple of chips on the board.
You should only do one leg of the chip, either do other component or wait a minute.
Then do another leg. You don't want to overheat the IC chip.

After you do a couple dozen legs you will see why I said to mark of the board. The connections all start looking the same. Easy to redo the same leg or miss one.

Retest after you finish a section. No go move up a little.

Pushing the switch will bend, deflect the board. Thus moving the PCB, a cold solder joint or broken trace is your problem. The movement is opening up circuit and resetting your display.
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Offline alpha1050

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Re: Display update...
« Reply #2 on: 08 December, 2013, 01:10:13 PM »
Thanks for the tips, Indy. Everything you suggested was taken on board & carried out.

I sectioned off the PCB into quarters, and rewetted each & every joint (getting good at this) except for one IC under the LCD & a couple that were smaller then a grain of sand.
When reconnected nothing had changed for the better or the worse. I've come to the conclusion that maybe a chip has gone belly up, unless, we have an electronic expert on the forum who has come across this before.

BTW, is there a common earth point on the bike? Looked but not found one.
Clutching at straws now.

Cheers Indy.
2007 Tiger 1050 Scorched Yellow
20614 via TuneECU,De-Cat,TOR.
Airbox Mod,K&N,19t front,Lowering Kit
Fender Extender,Twinlight Driver3

Online indytiger1050

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Re: Display update...
« Reply #3 on: 08 December, 2013, 02:30:41 PM »
 Bummer.

 
when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?


Sounds like the IC is what is left, or a trace to it.

Common earth point (ground) yes the frame of the bike. Other than that the battery.
 Triumph does not impress with how they wire things. If you look up in the headlight area you will find several thin ground wires running back to a slightly larger wire. All ends stripped back to copper and crimped together.  :138:

Could it be a ground issue, yes. Have seen ground issues cause some real weird stuff.   (could be wrong) But don't think so in this case.
IF you had odd things happening randomly and you did not touch the cluster, then yes a ground fault would make sense.
Since the problem only occurs when you push the button the problem sounds more mechanical like a wire, solder joint or bad trace. The latter being something to consider.

Keep this up, will make a electronic tech out of you.  :008:

Not knowing what would cause the IC to revert the display back to ground makes this tough.
One would have to assume removing either a voltage or ground to the IC would cause the chip to default. (is this a default setting or a reset condition)
 
 You did the easy bit, the next step IF you are determined enough makes the last look easy.

Let me know if you want to wade into the step.   


« Last Edit: 08 December, 2013, 02:32:30 PM by indytiger1050 »
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Offline Freddy

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Re: Display update...
« Reply #4 on: 20 January, 2014, 02:22:39 AM »
Hey alpha, where did you find the new toggle switches?

edit: found em.
« Last Edit: 20 January, 2014, 06:35:10 AM by Freddy »
The best substitute for brains is ........what?

Offline johned

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Re: Display update...
« Reply #5 on: 01 February, 2014, 01:16:46 PM »
Alpha,

If you are going to be soldering on printed circuit boards you NEED a temperature controlled soldering "station".  They start at $50.  I started off "wetting" PC board joints just like Indy instructed you to do and I still do it that way if I can't get to my station.  But the station takes the worry out of "de-laminating" the lands on the board.  You added the soldering term "wetting" to the conversation so maybe  you are savvy.

Find the ground point for the board (pin 1)and, using alligator clips, connect a temporary aux ground to the battery.  Do the same for the +12 volt input (verify pin 4 is 12 V from the ECM and note that putting power there will also put power into the ECM when the key is off).  That will eliminate grounds as a problem for testing. 
enuf is enuf but too much is plenty