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Offline StPeter

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Re: Whale Oil Beef Hooked...!!!!
« Reply #10 on: 30 November, 2013, 09:30:34 PM »
I was wondering abut the connection between the display (and its associated buttons) and the ecu. Looking at the wiring diagram, this is done via canBus. I think this rules out a connection fault external to the display so my guess is that the display is at fault. If you've got the buttons, I'd say change them anyway. Given that there's no obvious evidence of water ingress, it's a slim chance but it is possible that one or more of the switches has developed a fault and is causing the display to be confused. If that doesn't fix it, you could be in for a replacement unit - do I remember correctly - did someone post some outfit who did repairs to displays . . . somewhere on the east side of the country?

Sorry I can't be of more help . . . :112:
When I was fourteen, I couldn't believe how stupid my father was. When I was twenty one, I couldn't believe how much he'd learned  in the previous seven years. (Mark Twain)

Offline indytiger1050

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Re: Whale Oil Beef Hooked...!!!!
« Reply #11 on: 30 November, 2013, 09:33:25 PM »
*Originally Posted by alpha1050 [+]
.............and now when I press a function button, its not the neutral light that blinks, its the Engine Malfunction light..............for fecks sake. :745:
  Because the symptoms changed would guess it's a bad joint on a IC chip.
If it was to a specific light that circuit would be more likely.

Hind sight will be 20/20 on this one.

Start looking for a deal on a replacement cluster, if you don't DIY at tech will need a couple of hours to do whole board. Got my cluster for about $125.
Tech charge will be in that area with no guarantees of a fix.

*Originally Posted by StPeter [+]
From what I can see on the photo the joints look pretty good to me. A good one is shiny, smooth with the switch pin nicely "wetted" where it comes out of the joint. A bad one (dry or cold) is lumpy, crusty, crystalline and Matt.

You're right to suspect the connector. Have a close look at that; any green deposits on the contacts? Any distorted pins?

If you remake the joints as Indy suggests, a touch of solder as you do it will add flux which stops you drying out the joint and makes the solder flow. Heat the joint, add the solder, remove the solder and iron at the same time. If you've never done this it might be an idea to find a PCB from an old bit of kit (that VCR you stuck in the loft, just in case) and practice on that so you get the hang of it.
   :0461:  practice then go for it.
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Offline alpha1050

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Re: Whale Oil Beef Hooked...!!!!
« Reply #12 on: 30 November, 2013, 09:50:58 PM »
StPeter, the 3 toggle switches will be replaced soon, need to eliminate them.

Indy, if the button swap doesn't work, I'll look out for a replacement.

Thanks for all your info gents. :028:
« Last Edit: 30 November, 2013, 09:53:24 PM by alpha1050 »
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